South Devon Day 9 - Sidmouth to Lyme Regis

Saturday 2nd July 2022

This was a long section. We had originally planned to do this in two 9 mile easy stages (Sidmouth to Beer & Beer to Lyme Regis) over 2 days. However, one of the reasons for these shorter days was to accommodate Dave (aka Dicko), who would be joining us for the end of the walk as usual and would hopefully take part in one or both legs. Unfortunately, Dave had sustained a knee injury and it was no longer possible for him to take part- so he just turned up with his lovely partner Sian for the drinking and baggage transfer. In addition, our car was not at the end of the walk due to the rail strikes, it was back at Plymouth. So we decided to knock off both stints in one day which would leave us the last day to just get to Plymouth, collect our car and then drive to Bath reasonably fresh for a final celebration night out there.

As for the walking - the first section (Sidmouth to Beer) is pretty good but also quite challenging - lots of ups and downs especially through steep wooded pathways. Branscombe looks a good place (apparently it has it's own brewery) and Beer (where we stayed that night) is excellent - A quiet, cosy, olde world village with it's very own babbling brook. It has nice pubs and restaurants so was a good choice to finish the 10 days there.

The second section from Beer to Lyme Regis is somewhat disappointing. I had heard it would be a highlight of our walk - but instead it was hours of trudging through a jungle like environment, with nothing but feet watching to avoid slipping or tripping, no views except for the mass of green which enveloped everything. On the entire SWCP, this was the worst bit of the entire trail for me. The Axmouth to Lyme Regis Undercliffs Nature Reserve was a massive disappointment to say the least. It was a shame for Rob, who not only had to walk twice as far than he had expected to do that day, but also had to endure many hours of that.

Not the best way to finish our South Devon part of the SWCP, but generally, over the 9 days, the walking and weather had been very good indeed. Only about 85 miles to go to Poole - and then we will have done the whole of the SWCP, watch this space !

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Distance: 19.4 miles

Duration: 8:00 hours

Ascent: 3940 ft

Difficulty: Hard

Accompanied By: Davy & Rob

Weather: Mild with Showers

3D outline of route

Parking

Big Dave arrived in Sidmouth to make sure we didn't slow down in the beer drinking department.

Looking back towards Sidmouth as we start the strenuous climbs of the first leg.

The first of the downs & Ups at Hillcliff

Approaching Weston Combe

Sea level at Weston Mouth. The next climb went up 550ft in one hit. With Rob at the front you are not even allowed a breather !

Weston Mouth shingle beach - many cuttlefish were washed up here, they were all littered amongst the shingle. I would imagine this would be a good place to explore for washed up treasures.

A view down to Branscombe - no time for a visit today though.

Branscombe Mouth

Beer on the signpost - that would have been our endpoint, but now it's only the half way point.

Heading towards Beer Head, the path winds ever close to the edge. Often the undergrowth is the edge itself and you sense if you pass someone and put your weight on it, you will fall right through and down. We actually came across someone who had almost reached 'cragfast' status due to the drops. She was not at all comfortable with her surroundings.

Looking back along the coast you can just make out the narrow single file path meandering along the edge. This was indeed very enjoyable walking.

Arriving at the pretty village of Beer - Will be back here tonight for a wild night on the town. Probably get told to be quiet again I guess !

Beer beach

The shingle beach at Seaton Bay - this was quite hard walking. It was a sinking slog for about 1/2 mile with the loose shingle giving very little support to push off. Hence this was a bit tiring.

Seaton - the last bit of normality before entering the jungle

I've already said how disappointed we were with the Undercliffs Nature Reserve. Hours and hours of walking through this dense environment, constantly watching your feet to prevent from slipping or falling, and avoiding the low hanging spiky things that seemed to always be at my head height. I certainly didn't enjoy it - but probably others will marvel in the uniqueness of this environment and enjoy the different flora of this area. But not me, I'm afraid.

A view !!!! Forgot how close we are to the coast.

Remnant of the Rousdons Cliffs Pumping Station - A rare sight of interest.

Back to the Burmese jungle march. I kept expecting to have to burn leeches off my legs and was worried I didn't have any malaria tablets.

It's got to be done if your doing the whole SWCP - We saw this sign as we were coming to the end of Undercliffs - I could imagine this would be quite a dangerous place for lone walker. A fall halfway through this could be really problematic especially if there's no phone signal, and we only past a couple of walkers in it's entirety.

Out of the jungle and spirits were raised as we 'skipped' into Lyme Regis (with another 150 miles under our belts).

The harbour at Lyme Regis seemed as good a place as any to finish this year - So it was time for a celebratory photo. We had forgotten to carry our Smog shirts, so that tradition had to be waived this once. New ones for next year I think.

A night out in Beer was enjoyed by all - especially me & Davy who received our 'goody bags' of pressies from Dave & Sian - Now that's a tradition we really enjoy ! Car to collect in the morning (Don't forget the keys !! there's a story there I'm afraid) A night in Bath tomorrow, then it's home and all these blogs to write up - Ugghh.