Pennine Way Day 9 - Tan Hill to Middleton-in-Teesdale

Sunday 14th November 2021

Walking Diary (All Walks) Long Distance Walks North Yorkshire & Co Durham Pennine Way

Pennine Way Day 9 - Tan Hill to Middleton-in-Teesdale

Today marks the halfway point of the Pennine Way. Which is great, although it's also the the sort of day that felt like you were trudging over endless, often squelchy moorland in a bleak and isolated arena. You can relish the heather, the views and the mood changes of the unceasing stretches of peat and purple heather, but the majority of the first half is just a fairly mundane slog though bland moorland if I'm being honest.

However, there are several picturesque pieces of countryside along the way, especially during the second half of the day when the surroundings improve significantly and you feel like you are back in traditional Dales territory. We enjoyed the afternoons walk past the four significantly sized reservoirs and the more undulating terrain of Harter Fell on the approaches to Middleton-in-Teesdale.

We decided against the optional treat of detouring towards Bowes, via the Bowes Loop as we had limited light in the day and decided it was sensible to get this leg knocked off in good visibility later on. It was also interesting to note that there was 1000ft of descent more than ascent - effectively meaning that this was an easier 17 mile compared to the previous day on the Pennine Way.

Well that's it for this years Long Distance Walk - extended slightly due to my well discussed heel injury, but we eventually made it to the intended finish line in November rather than July - but finish we did. We will do the second (Northern) half of the Pennine Way in a year or two's time, time for a visit to the coast next I think !

The information contained in the material on this Website is for information purposes only and does not constitute advice.
Distance: 17.5 miles
Duration: 6:30 hours
Ascent: 2149 ft
Difficulty: Moderate/Hard
Accompanied By: Davy
Weather: Dry & Mild

3D outline of route

Parking

Setting off from the Tan Hill pub - nice and early to make sure we have the light at the end of the walk - It is November after all.

This picture doesn't really do the first few miles justice - plenty of water and soft underfoot as we picked our way through the waterlogged path - too busy trying to stay dry to take photos I'm afraid.

Pretty bland out there - Sleightholme Moor

Sleightholme Beck

After a very underwhelming couple of hours - We reached the excitement of the A66. I'd actually always wondered where the Pennine Way crossed the A66 - often looking for bridges as I travelled to and from the lakes. The moment of realisation was almost upon us !

But first it was Gods Bridge. God's Bridge is a is a natural limestone bridge over the River Greta, just over 3 km upstream from the village of Bowes. The bridge was formed by a process of cave development in the limestone beneath the river bed and is the best example in Britain of a natural bridge formed in this way. Well it's certainly worthy of a photo if nothing else.

So no footbridge then ! No wonder I could never spot one.

Ah Ha !!

I wonder how many weary souls have trudged through here after a soaking on Sleightholme Moor ?

Well - It's sad to see that the majority of my photo's to date are of a dual carriageway and a corrugated steel tunnel - says everything doesn't it.

Any ideas ? We were stumped ?

The weather was becoming quite pleasant and this hut was left open purposefully for walkers to use as shelter. Not really necessary today as we sat outside on a couple of chairs for lunch - much appreciated all the same.

Ascent onto Cotherstone Moor - looking back over the very gradual climb from the A66

Still a bit squelchy - wish I'd taken a few photo's earlier on in the day when we were negotiating the more wetter ground nearer Tan Hill.

Approaching Blackton Reservoir

Time for a drink stop and enjoy the still beauty of the scenery. Over the last 2 days of the Pennine Way, we have walked the best part of 35 miles and probably only bumped into 3 or maybe 4 couples of walkers throughout it's entirety- to say this walk is for the introvert is certainly not too far wrong.

Thank goodness for Goretex boots !

Skirting Brownberry Woods - We walked past this isolated Oak

Grassholme Reservoir

Starting the gentle ascent of Harter Fell

An easy finish along the side of Harter Fell with views of Grassholme Reservoir to our right

First sight of our destination - Middleton-in-Teesdale

Not the most scenic of places to depart the Way. But this is the point at which we will re-join the walk in the coming years. The promise that the next leg is one of the best on the entire way will certainly give us plenty to look forward to.

A River Tees crossing before we collect our cars and head for home.